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In his novella Death in Venice, Thomas Mann suggested the oppressive problem of decadence for modern culture. What Mann called decadence at the beginning of the 20th century has perhaps become normal life for us today, such that we are no longer aware of modern decadence as a falling away from anything. Can we recover this awareness? What is “decadence”, and is there a way to find meaning amid a decadent culture? Or, since much great art and literature has been falsely branded “decadent”, is decadence sometimes something to embrace? We will study of the problem of decadence through the art, architecture, and history of Venice, both in lectures and in excursions as well as through a number of major literary texts and an opera discussed in class.

• Friday, Jan. 2: Depart from SFO
• Saturday, Jan. 3: Arrive in Venice
  Water taxis from Airport to dorms, Orientation

Week 1

• Sunday, Jan. 4: Venice
  Optional morning mass in Basilica San Marco (Byzantine Church at the center of Venice). Visit to Ca’ D’Oro (“House of Gold”, luxurious Renaissance palazzo with art museum). Welcome Reception
• Monday, Jan. 5: Venice
  Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice I, Lecture: “Introduction to Decadence and Venice.” Visit San Zaccaria (gem of Renaissance Venetian architecture with major paintings). Piazza San Marco (symbolic and political center of Venice).
• Tuesday, Jan. 6: Venice
  Shakespeare’s Merchant of Venice II. Lecture: “Ghetto and Funduq-Venetian Jewish and Muslim History.” Excursion: Ghetto (historically Jewish neighborhood), San Giobbe (Renaissance painting, architecture and majolica reliefs).
• Wednesday, Jan. 7: Venice
  Lecture: “The Longest Lasting Government: Republic of Venice (697-1797).” Excursion: Palazzo Ducale (the palace of the Doge, filled with major painting and impressive rooms).
• Thursday, Jan. 8: Venice
  Lecture: “Venetian Colorito and the Rise of Modern Oil Painting (Bellini-Giorgione).” Excursion: Accademia (main museum of Venetian painting, major paintings of Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Veronese, Tintoretto, Tiepolo).
• Friday, Jan. 9: Venice
  Mozart’s Don Giovanni. Lecture: “Venetian Decadence: Carnival, Opera, Libertinism and Liberalism.” Excursion: La Fenice (Historic opera house).
• Saturday, Jan. 10: Trip to Padua
  (Beautiful public squares, museums, the ancient university, churches and the best market in Italy…Giotto’s Cappella dei Scrovegni, Baptistry, Palazzo della Ragione, Piazza del Orologio, Sant’ Antonio, Santa Giustina, Palazzo del Bo).

Week 2

• Sunday, Jan. 11: Venice
  Optional morning mass at Basilica San Marco.
• Monday, Jan. 12: Venice
  Joseph Brodsky, Watermark I. Excursion: House of Fortuny (Fashion, art, photography, and set design by an early 20 th century Spanish designer in his medieval palazzo/studio).
• Tuesday, Jan. 13: Venice
  Joseph Brodsky, Watermark II. Excursion: Arsenal, Maritime museum (Center of Venice’s military ship production).
• Wednesday, Jan. 14: Sailing Trip, Day 1
  The Laguna di Venezia in four racing sailboats all with expert skippers and sailing instructors; sail from Chioggia to Saint Mark’s Square, sleep in Venice. (No sailing knowledge required.)
• Thursday, Jan. 15: Sailing Trip, Day 2
  Islands, fortifications. Sail to Chioggia.
• Friday, Jan. 16: Venice
  Madonna del Orto (paintings of Tintoretto and others). I Gesuiti (paintings of Titian and others).
• Saturday, Jan. 17: Venice
  Free day

Week 3

• Sunday, Jan. 18: Venice
  Free day. Optional morning mass Basilica San Marco.
• Monday, Jan. 19: Venice
  James Joyce, “The Dead.” Lecture: “The Pleasures of Decline in Tiepolo, Byron, Wagner, and Nietzsche.” Excursion: Ca’ Rezzonico (18th century palace with museum of rococo painting and decorative arts).
• Tuesday, Jan. 20: Trip to Duino and Trieste
  Duino: Cliffside hike over Duino Castle.
  Trieste: Museo Rivolella (20th century Austro-Italian art). Meal in Triestine restaurant. Synagogue (early 20th century architecture). Caffe San Marco (historic Austrian style café).
• Wednesday, Jan. 21: Venice
  Lecture: “Death and Rebirth in Venetian Painting in the time of the Plague (Titian-Tintoretto).” Excursion: Scuola S. Rocco (paintings of Tintoretto on the plague), Basilica dei Frari (Gothic church with major paintings by Titian and many others).
• Thursday, Jan. 22: Venice
  Lecture: The Venetian School of Architecture (Byzantine to Baroque). Excursion: Architecture walk, S.M. dei Miracoli (Pietro Lombardo), S.F. delle Vigne (Andrea Palladio); S.S. Giovani e Paolo (major Gothic church with impressive monuments to the Doges buried there, as well as paintings by major artists); History of Medicine Museum (sumptuous Renaissance meeting house with display of medical instruments and manuscripts).
• Friday, Jan. 23: Venice
  Lecture: “Mass tourism and the environment: contemporary problems.” Excursion: Basilica San Marco (Mosaics, Pala D’Oro, Treasury, museum and overlook of Piazza.)
• Saturday, Jan. 24: Venice
  Lecture: “Venice and ‘decadent’ art: Biennale and Guggenheim.” Excursion: San Sebastiano (illusionism of Veronese), Guggenheim Museum (20th and 21st century art).

Week 4

• Sunday, Jan. 25: Venice
  Optional morning mass Basilica San Marco.
• Monday, Jan. 26: Venice
  Excursion: Museo Correr. Farewell Reception.
  Depart from Venice. Arrive at SFO.

Course Fee: TBD
Learn about the Jan Term Travel Scholarship for additional funding.

This fee includes:
Airfare, Local Transportation, Lodging, Meals, Excursions (e.g., museums, tours, etc.), Gratuity, Travel Insurance ($35/student - international classes only), Miscellaneous